Verus Activewear & Research Project

Verus Activewear Collection & Research Project

The research project aimed to find knowledge about the garment design needs and concerns of a sample of women who took part in physical activity/sports. The sample was identified by sending an online questionnaire to the database of female Cookie West customers, leading to respondents with a range of ages, body sizes and abilities at sports/physical activities. The survey questions sought to find out what the physical activities or sports were that they participated in, what were the most popular activities across the sample and information about what garment styles they currently wore, what were their priorities in terms of design function and style and what improvements or changes they would like to see. The survey also explored what brands were popular and what price brackets consumers thought were acceptable for garment retail prices. It aimed to investigate the issues important to them, so that these could be considered and implemented in to the design processes.

The survey findings highlighted that for this sample the most popular activities were running, jogging or walking, swimming (in swimming pools or open water), cycling outdoors or attending an indoor cycling class and also that a majority of the group were either regularly training for and taking part in Triathlon competitions or would consider doing so in the near future. Boxing, martial arts and 'combat style' exercise classes were also shown to be popular activities.

A follow on survey questionnaire was sent to those who identified themselves as being Triathlon participants (or having an interest in Triathlon) in the first survey and case studies with two 'Age-Group' Triathletes were also carried out. I organised two workshops with the two Triathletes together, the first to discuss their experiences and expectations of Triathlon (and other) sportswear garments and also of their design preferences. The findings from both surveys and the case studies were reviewed together. The data was analysed and interpreted and used to inform the direction of the collection and the garment design and development processes. The data analysis gave knowledge and understanding of what needed to be incorporated in to the designs to cater for the selected activities; of swimming, cycling, running, general fitness training and triathlon training and competition.

I developed mood/inspiration boards and colour ideas based on my interpretation of the research findings and began to develop some digitally generated artwork designs to be printed by sublimation on to the performance sportswear fabrics, that were being analysed and selected for the collection. This was something new to my practice and I had to learn about how to develop the artwork designs in a format for sublimation printing and to also experiment with which fabrics allowed the best looking and most durable print results. This was important, so that I could design garments that had the potential for being long-lasting and not being disposed of because the fabric print fading. In the designs, the 'Verus' print pattern (in dark grey, red and white) was aimed to give the performance sportswear garment a feminine look, that was also visually attractive and striking. (This had come through in the research findings, as a desired improvement to performance sportswear.)

A second workshop with the two Triathletes was held, to gather and then analyse feedback on initial design and fabric ideas, to incorporate this in to the final design development stage. This along with participant observation at live events, led me to understand the different design features that were needed in Triathlon suits dependent on the distance and weather/climate conditions of the race.

I worked through a process of selecting the best fabrics and trims, design features, style/cut and construction methods for each garment; to allow the design and production of a collection of activewear garments that gave: support to the body and ease of movement (through lightweight, 4-way stretch fabrics) a flattering fit to the female form, comfort and softness (whilst also being hardwearing), the ability for sweat to be wicked away from the body through the fabric (to keep the body cool, through moisture evaporation from the outer surface of the fabric) and for the fabric to dry quickly. All fabrics also gave good coverage and do not appear see-through when wet or in a stretched position.

Certain garments were developed from fabrics that performed well in the water and on land, therefore accommodating the different stages of a Triathlon race; with swimming, cycling and then running stages and the same outfit being worn throughout the race. Fabrics were selected that were designed (and tested, by the manufacturer) to give good colour fastness to water (in both chlorinated and sea water), perspiration, daylight and wear/rubbing. Sports bras, tops and Triathlon Suits were developed with soft yet supportive fold-over elastic trim, to ensure a smooth fit with no chaffing. Zip fastenings were also designed to have a smooth surface against the skin (a fabric panel), so that the zip could not rub against the body during movement. Arm holes were shaped and positioned so that they allowed freedom of movement and so that seams and edges did not rub on the body.

This systematic research process, documenting every stage and recording all outcomes, led to the development of the final outputs, the design, production and communication of a 6 outfit collection and a critical reflective report.

Verus Activewear Collection - a 5 Outfit collection suited to the target audience, for exercising, training or competition in Spring or Summer weather/climate conditions in the UK:

Outfit 1: Sports bra, Tank top & Cropped Legging

Outfit 2: Swim/Sports bra & Swim/Sports fitted short

Outfit 3: Short Course Triathlon Suit (to be worn with Swim/Sports bra) - with back zip, for a streamlined fit.

Outfit 4: Short course Triathlon Suit (to be worn with Swim/Sports bra) - with front zip, for a streamlined fit, but also the option to lower the zip whilst running to aid heat leaving the body during long distances.

Outfit 5 - a fully customisable Short Course Triathlon Suit with integral bust support, based on Outfit 3 and part of the design service concept 'Verus Customised Triathlon Apparel'.

Outfit 6 - a bespoke and personalised design, Long Course Triathlon Suit and Sports bra, based on Outfit 4 and part of the design service concept 'Bespoke Triathlon Apparel'.

The collection was communicated through photography, video and a website, all developed in collaboration with WeTheConspirators. The images and video below feature Outfits 1-4.

" 'Verus by Cookie West - Performance Sportswear' is a new Women's Sports and Activewear brand focusing on apparel for Fitness, Swimming, Cycling, Running and Triathlon. For training or competition: performance apparel that is feminine, cut to flatter and support the female form and allows you to perform at your best."

(Cookie West website, 2013).